Samstag, 16. April 2016

Tribeca's Female Directors Take a Hard Look at Women's Struggles in a Man's World


The thriller “Always Shine” and the documentary “All This Panic” showcase two different sides of the female experience



The Tribeca Film Festival has touted the fact that almost 40 percent of its feature films this year are directed or co-directed by women, but that doesn’t necessarily guarantee cinema from a female perspective.


Liza Johnson‘s “Elvis & Nixon,” for example, focuses on a pair of famous men; documentaries like “30 for 30: This Magic Moment” (co-directed by Erin Leyden) and “The Return” (Kelly Duane de la Vega and Katie Galloway) are set in all-male arenas.


But a couple of the more intriguing Tribeca films that screened at the festival on Thursday and Friday were so thoroughly focused on the female experience that they’d be hard-pressed to pass a reverse Bechdel test: In an upheaval of the usual cinematic pattern, conversations entirely between men are almost completely missing from both Jenny Gage’s documentary “All This Panic” and Sophia Takal’s narrative drama “Always Shine.”



Both films have lots to recommend them, but “All This Panic” is the more satisfying. The film follows seven teenage girls navigating the treacherous terrain of adolescence in New York City. It details a world where alcohol and drugs are taken lightly but sex is not, and where virtually everyone bears some scars from their upbringing.


First-time director Gage aims to be compassionate, not judgmental, and her startling intimacy with her subjects never feels exploitative (although it’s easy to imagine these girls’ parents learning a few things from the movie). Moments that could be milked for drama — one teen who comes out as gay, another seemingly level-headed young woman who begins cutting herself — are depicted matter-of-factly rather than melodramatically, as the film skips lightly and deftly through three and a half crucial years.


Life goes by fast, these girls do what they can in a world that tries to sexualize and contain them, and Gage gives us glances that add up to indelible portraits of young women we desperately want to see overcome the internal and external factors holding them back.



“I don’t want to age,” says one of the high schoolers early in the film. “I think that’s the scariest thing in the whole world.” That fear is ever-present in “All This Panic” — but so are joy and confusion and obsession and love and heartbreak.


“It’s life and life only,” Bob Dylan, the bard of an earlier generation, once wrote. That could also be a motto for “All This Panic,” and a big reason the film is so profoundly moving and beautiful.


One of the teens in “All This Panic” wants to become an actress — but if she sees “Always Shine,” she might have second thoughts. The unsettling, uneven drama from actress-turned-director Sophia Takal is a psychological thriller with its share of twists and turns, but more important than the details of its plot are the things it says about the roles women are expected to play, in life and particularly in Hollywood.



Mackenzie Davis and Caitlin FitzGerald play best friends, both of them aspiring actresses. Davis’ Beth is pliant, meek and fairly successful, while FitzGerald’s Anna is outspoken and argumentative in a way that has clearly derailed her career.


In conversation after conversation, the men around these women are condescending and patronizing; when Beth insists that she’s just fine with a role that will require “extensive nudity,” they approvingly call her sweetheart, but when Anna argues with a mechanic he tells her she’s not ladylike enough.


“Always Shine” is partly about the boxes into which women (especially actresses) are supposed to fit, but it turns creepy when it begins to detail how their acceptance or refusal of those boxes poisons the relationship between the women. The two actresses are theoretically best friends, but a weekend retreat to the idyllic Northern California outpost of Big Sur quickly turns very ugly, and very strange.



The movie makes it clear that Takal, an indie actress for years before she made her directorial debut in 2011 with “Green,” is working through some issues that have arisen during her time in Hollywood — and at the Q&A that followed the film’s world premiere at Tribeca on Friday night, she admitted that “Always Shine” was drawn “100 percent” from her experiences as an actress.


“A lot of what you see in the movie was me,” she said. “I was really desperate, really competitive … And I never felt that I fit into this idea of femininity that had been fed to me since I was a child. The movie comes from the struggles I had with femininity and my anger at women who fit into those ideals.”


Takal plays with thriller tropes in “Always Shine,” and she winks at the audience by giving her leading ladies a number of almost-nude scenes after Beth talks about how she hates always being asked to disrobe on camera. The twists and feints that make up the final stretch of the film are distracting, and sometimes feel as artificial as the relationship and the depiction of Hollywood misogyny feels true.


But like “All This Panic,” Takal’s film is an honest attempt to grapple with the female experience, and to place it in the center of a movie screen. “I feel totally changed by this movie,” FitzGerald said afterwards. “I really took a long look at my own desire to be desired.”






Tribeca"s Female Directors Take a Hard Look at Women"s Struggles in a Man"s World

Two new wheels from four old ones

Former marketing professional quit his job to build an eight-foot-long motorbike from the parts of a Maruti 800


At first glance, 25-year-old Nilesh Sarode’s eight-foot-long motorcycle, recreated using parts of a Maruti 800, looks like a monstrous chopper. The car’s engine is outfitted snugly inside its flat chassis that’s supported by a huge rear tyre, which once belonged to a BMW lying in a scrapyard.


But on closer inspection, the bike even looks like a bobber. “The motorcycle was built from scratch, using parts of my sister’s Maruti 800 that was lying around at our backyard. We didn’t want to sell it because of sentimental reasons,” said Sarode, a mechanical engineer. He then decided to create a motorcycle out of the car, despite having no prior experience in automotive engineering.


The task was a challenge. So much so that Sarode quit his plum marketing job to work on the project last year in November. He has spent over Rs 2 lakh so far in making the motorcycle roadworthy.


Now that his dream bike is ready to be tested, we got Baljeet Singh Kochhar, a veteran 40-year-old biker and restorer of motorcycles, to assess Sarode’s creation. After examining the two-wheeler, Kochhar said, “There are others who have tried this sort of modification before, but none have managed to outfit a motorcycle with the gearbox of a Maruti 800. Added to that, it’s shaft-driven — it’s really not so difficult to fix motorcycles with different kinds of engines if they are chain-driven, but this machine has the differential of a four-wheeler.”


Kochhar was also impressed by the rustic frame. “I love the homemade feel. As far as I see, she’s not built for a long cruise, but she’s perfect for short rides around the city. And the average of 35 km/litre is indeed impressive,” explained Kochhar.


According to Sarode, the process of outfitting his machine with the gearbox of a Maruti 800 was his biggest challenge. “You operate the gears of your car with your hand, but as we all know, it’s the opposite with two-wheelers. Adapting the dynamics of this gear system to suit the design of the motorcycle was quite a task,” he recollected.


Kochhar was quite pleased with the results, except for a few minor glitches. “The motorcycle is clearly designed to handle Sarode’s 6-foot frame. However, a shorter man like me will find it difficult to reach the ground. This isn’t a problem when you are cruising, but it can get a little difficult while managing heavy traffic,” said Kochhar.


Kochhar also pointed out other design flaws which he feels can be finetuned. “The setting of the chassis is not that smooth. When I was shifting gears, I could feel some jerks,” said the biker. However, as a seasoned rider, Kochhar is proud of what the youngster has created. “Even in India, indigenously customising motorcycles is a painstaking and expensive hobby. Such projects usually can cost lakhs. I am quite impressed by how he managed to keep his budget so low. And the fact he built a roadworthy motorcycle literally out of scrap is amazing,” Kochhar concluded with a smile.



Two new wheels from four old ones

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Freitag, 15. April 2016

22-year-old motorcyclist charged with eluding police during traffic stop

CHESTER TOWNSHIP — A 22-year-old man is facing an eluding charge after police say he and another motorcyclist were driving erratically on North Road and refused to pull over during a traffic stop.


Chester Township police responded to North Road Thursday evening after receiving reports of two motorcycles driving erratically toward Randolph, Lt. Edward Noonan said in a news release.


When the responding officer tried to pull over the motorcycles, the motorcyclists attempted to elude him and drove away recklessly at a high rate of speed, Noonan said.


As they fled, the motorcycles were forced to slow down due to traffic. One of the drivers tried to pass slowed traffic and ended up pulling off to the side to avoid an oncoming vehicle.


The driver who stopped — Tyler Poissant, 22, of Succasunna — was unharmed and came to a complete stop on the soft shoulder. The other motorcyclist passed the traffic and fled the area.


Poissant was arrested and charged with eluding/failure to stop. He was remanded to Morris County Correctional Facility in lieu of $25,000 bail.


Earlier this month, Pequannock police arrested a motorcyclist who eluded police during a pursuit in December. They were able to apprehend him after a helmet-mounted video of the chase surfaced online.


In Passaic County, two serious crashes involving motorcycles also occurred on Thursday — one of which was fatal. A motorcyclist, whose identity was not released, was killed in a crash on Route 21, and a 63-year-old man was seriously injured when he collided with a Plymouth Voyager in West Milford.


Justin Zaremba may be reached at jzaremba@njadvancemedia.com. Follow him on Twitter @JustinZarembaNJ. Find NJ.com on Facebook.



22-year-old motorcyclist charged with eluding police during traffic stop

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Another String to the Bowe


Published 15/04/2016 | 02:30



While rugby players are a pretty dapper bunch in this day and age, it’s still pretty rare that the worlds of the sport and fashion collide. Many of our top players have side businesses in the food and drink industry, investing in bars and restaurants; the Kearneys Jamie Heaslip and Sean O’Brien own The Bridge 1859 in Ballsbridge, while Heaslip’s other place Bear is a popular restaurant on South William Street in Dublin. But for Ulster and Ireland winger Tommy Bowe, it’s clothing that came a-calling – and it’s an industry he’s grown very fond of.





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With a men’s fashion label and a shoe line to his name, Bowe is making clothes for the average Irish man with a reasonable price tag, and doing well at it too – his XV Kings apparel range has grown from 13 pieces per season to more than 65 in a couple of years.


“It all came about by chance, really,” he tells me from his base in Belfast. “I first got in to shoes about four or five years ago. I was approached by two guys from Monaghan, where I’m from, whose family had been in the shoe business for three generations. They wanted to launch a new collection of men’s shoes and wanted me to get on board. I didn’t know a whole pile about men’s shoes at the time, but I certainly do now!” he laughs. “I liked that it was something different, that I wasn’t doing the tried and tested thing. That’s how Lloyd and Pryce happened.”


Two years later and after expanding in to women’s and children’s footwear, the trio decided to broaden their horizons and go in to men’s fashion together. “I was quite keen to get in to clothing, and explore that new area. We toyed around with lots of different names; all three of us liked the Kings part, and the XV relates to 15 rugby players on a team. We thought we’d give it a shot, because it’s hard to know what people will like.”


And of course, Bowe is also the face (and feet) of his side projects. Is he comfortable in front of the camera, I wonder. “I’m not sure I’ll ever be comfortable to be honest, but it’s something I’ve been doing for 11 years, since I started playing rugby professionally, so I guess I’m just a bit more used to it these days.”


For Bowe, business has been an eye opener – and the lines aren’t just something he lends his name to, he’s involved with both throughout the entire process. “I try to get as involved as I can – I chat to the guys and throw around some ideas, look at samples, see how sales and deliveries and manufacture are coordinated. I really enjoy the whole business side of it; coming from rugby, that’s something I’ve done for so long and you’re very much in a bubble. Everything is about the game, so it’s great to step outside that sometimes and see how the real world works.”


Bowe was out of action and off the rugby pitch since a knee injury took him out during last year’s Rugby World Cup, but has just returned to the Ulster squad. Was it frustrating not being able to work? “Oh yeah, it’s a killer, it’s really frustrating. I was fortunate to be part of the World Cup and I really enjoyed it, but being injured and missing the Six Nation was tough. Once you get back on the pitch though, you see light at the end of the tunnel, and feel like part of the team again. To be honest, I don’t really enjoy watching the matches when I can’t play. It’s difficult because you want to be out there, but injury means you can’t be selected so I just had to keep myself busy and not think about it the whole time.”


A newlywed, Bowe married former Miss Wales Lucy Whitehouse, a nurse that he met through friends when living in Wales and playing for the Ospreys. The couples now live together in Belfast where Tommy is back training and playing with his club.


Bowe admits that life after rugby is on his mind. “I’m always thinking about it, oh yeah. I just turned 32 and when you get to this age, it’s a bit of a reality check. I’m very fortunate to be playing as long as I have – so many friends had to hang up their boots early, with their career ending in injury. It’s something I’m very aware of, and even within IRUPA, they’re very keen to try and get players to study or do some work experience, and get an idea of what they might like to get in to afterwards.”


Although he deems it a “juggling act”, Bowe is pleased with the side path he’s taken thus far. “We got started with the shoes in a difficult period economically. Five years ago the recession was in full swing. So we’ve made a constant effort to try and put the clothing in at a price point that’s very reasonable. We wanted to create a brand that people are happy with, but that’s not breaking the bank. We’re competing with huge brands though, like G-Star and Superdry.”


Tommy’s also adamant that they’re not trend-driven. “We try to base the line around the average Irish man, and cater to as many different people as we can. We have some shirts with a bit of a funky pattern that some guys would never be seen dead putting on and other more plain and casual stuff. It’s a nice mix. We’re not trying to follow the trends of London or Milan!”


However despite his love for the fashion industry, Bowe’s heart belongs to the beautiful game. “Rugby has always been my number one love, it still is and I’m so lucky to be paid to play the sport I love. But whenever I do finally hang up my boots, a new challenge could be to get in to the business world and try something different. I wouldn’t say I have a business brain per se, but my parents had their own businesses growing up so it was a big part of my childhood; our parents worked really hard to be successful.”


During his time off due to injury, Tommy did a bit of commentary for some Ireland games. Is punditry something that interests him, and might he follow in the footsteps of Brian O’Driscoll and Shane Horgan?


“It’s something that I enjoy doing, whenever I was out injured it’s nice to be still part of the game and get to go to matches. But it’s not something I’m interested in at the moment.”


I tell him that on his recent trip to Ireland, former All Black Dan Carter complained that he hadn’t got a pair of Lloyd and Pryce shoes. “Ah, they’re not on sale in Paris yet,” he grins. “I must send him some over – and Ronan O’Gara too, his must be worn down to the soles at this point.”


Irish Independent




Another String to the Bowe

Raudonikis joins men's night out







RUGBY league legend Tommy Raudonikis will be one of the special guests at the Warialda Men’s Health Night Out on Thursday, April 21, and everybody is invited.


HEALTHY ADVICE: Rugby league legend and cancer survivor Tommy Raudonikis in the new cancer wing of the Prince of Wales where he underwent treatment, and is now cancer-free. Photo by Dallas Kilponen.

HEALTHY ADVICE: Rugby league legend and cancer survivor Tommy Raudonikis in the new cancer wing of the Prince of Wales where he underwent treatment, and is now cancer-free. Photo by Dallas Kilponen.



The night, organised by the Warialda Health Service Advisory committee, drew a crowd last year, and committee member and farmer David Conway said it is a great way to inspire blokes to think about their health.


“We felt we needed to do something, so last year, we put this on, and we found it was quite successful with 140 people coming,” David said.


Tommy Raudonikis has spoken candidly about his battle with cancer and will share some of his war stories, and David said NSW Farmer’s representative Rob Anderson has grappled with depression and has stories of his own.


“And Margie Burns will just talk in general about mental health,” David added.


Besides the keynote guests, the night is a health expo with nurses and Anglicare staff to address issues of mind and body health.


Visitors can have blood pressure checks, a free flu shot, pick up Rotary bowel scan kit, and have access to a range of professionals to talk about mental health, prostate cancer, and other things that may affect men.


“There should be at least 10 to 12 expo-like people on tables, and it’s not only open to men,” David said. “It’s a men’s health night, and if the wife or the partner wants to come, we’re not going to say no.”


The event is held at the Warialda Showgrounds with a 5.30pm start with a free barbecue on the night. 


David said everyone is welcome to rock up for a night of learning and laughter.


“As I said last year, if 140 people walked away laughing, it can’t have been a bad thing.”



Raudonikis joins men"s night out

GM says it will phase out cars without air bags



DETROIT (AP) — General Motors Co. said Thursday it will phase out cars without air bags and other safety features after its Chevrolet Sail subcompact flunked a crash test in Latin America.


The Latin New Car Assessment Program — an independent testing organization — said Thursday the Sail received zero stars in its latest tests. The organization said the Sail is unstable and has no air bags. It also lacks three-point seat belts in all positions.


The Sail is made in China and exported to emerging markets. It has a starting price of less than $10,000.


It’s one of several Chevrolet cars that have done poorly on the tests. The Aveo, Spark and Agile cars without air bags also have gotten zero stars on Latin NCAP’s tests.


Many other brands — including Chery, Geely, Hyundai, Nissan, Fiat and Renault — also sell cars that have gotten zero stars in the group’s crash tests.


Alejandro Furas, Latin NCAP’s secretary general, said GM should follow the example of Honda, Toyota and Volkswagen, all of which sell cars that exceed minimal safety standards in Latin America.


Earlier this year, GM CEO Mary Barra defended selling cars without air bags in markets that don’t require them, saying they’re more affordable for low-income buyers.


But on Thursday, GM reiterated a pledge it made last summer to spend $5 billion developing safer cars for emerging markets. The cars will have air bags and three-point seat belts in all positions, the company said.


The new cars will start appearing in the 2019 model year, the company said.


“GM shares the goal of improving road safety worldwide, including the adoption of basic auto safety standards in global markets and the phase-out of zero-star cars,” the company said in a statement.


___


This story corrects an earlier version to say that cars will begin appearing in the 2019 model year, not by 2019.



© 2016 The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.




GM says it will phase out cars without air bags

Donnerstag, 14. April 2016

France Lifts 100 HP Ban on Euro 3 Motorcycles

It’s a good spring day for French motorcyclists as the lawmakers finally agreed to lift the ban on Euro 3 bikes whose engines produce more than 100 horsepower. The modified law affects both the new bikes and those that were already registered.

Until now, the French law deemed illegal to ride a motorcycle that was capable of more than 100 hp without a restriction kit also known as “Le Retrofit.” That meant that, regardless of how brawny a motorcycle was, its owner could only enjoy a fraction of its power riding it on public roads.


Thankfully, it looks like someone finally understood how silly this whole thing was, especially when compared to the laws in other countries in the European Union.


The EU licensing laws already made short work of the power-related issue, as much as it was possible. Still, there is nothing stopping a new rider from operating the bike erroneously and becoming injured.


Frankly, a 47 horsepower bike can be quite fast, has a strong acceleration and can be a road hazard in the hands of the inexperienced rider. Why France considered until now that even highly-experienced motorcyclists should not ride bikes over 100 hp remains a complete mystery, but as this is hardly the only silly motorcycle law in that country, we’ll just add we’re glad it’s gone.


The new law still expects to be published in official papers and will only then become effective. It looks like things will return to normal in May, and besides the riders, the new rule will also help the industry grow a bit. For starters, those who are riding restricted bikes will now be able to unleash their full power, being allowed to “restore them to the original configuration.”


Riders who have been eyeing a new motorcycle will have one more incentive to go for pretty much any model that pleases them, and man, there is a lot of new superbikes and other street models that are fantastic choices, and that are excellent fun with their full, unbridled power.




France Lifts 100 HP Ban on Euro 3 Motorcycles

Mittwoch, 13. April 2016

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Parineeti On Man's World Cover Is The Hottest Thing You'll Come Across Today


Parineeti is making headlines and how! After a body makeover, Parineeti made headlines with her Australia tour and now she is appearing on the cover magazines, one magazine at a time. 


Parineeti has turned herself into this beautiful dove and we still cannot get over how good she looks. And boy, after looking at her photoshoot for Man’s World magazine, we have concluded that Parineeti has outdone herself. 


Parineeti has definitely raised the bar. No doubt that soon she’ll take over the tag of B-town’s fashionista. In the shoot, Parineeti has graced lace dresses and tops.  


Here, Parineeti neatly embraces a see-through lace dress. She looks divine. 



For Man


Her cover picture for the magazine. Here she is wearing an off-shoulder cotton top. 



For Man


Prints and more prints. She is flaunting a maxi skirt with accentuated panelling. 



For Man


This one is our favourite. She is sporting a white lace top paired with a black flared skirt. 



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So what do you think of Parineeti’s hot shoot for Man’s World magazine? 




Parineeti On Man"s World Cover Is The Hottest Thing You"ll Come Across Today

Derby custom-built motorbike firm is riding high

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A DERBY business is starting to make a big noise in the world of custom-built motorbikes just a year after being founded.


Twisted Spine Motorcycles, which was started by Rob and Vikki Wood, is celebrating winning a glut of awards for its products, while also gaining national exposure in national custom bike magazines.


The firm specialises in building customised versions of classic British motorcycles. Its bespoke bikes are all built by hand in Mr Wood’s workshop at his Oakwood home using stainless steel frames, which he also makes from scratch. So far, the company’s portfolio features two bikes – the Francis Barnett 56 and the BSA Navigator.


The Francis Barnett 56 is an imaginative take on a model once produced by the Coventry-based motorcycle manufacturer, while the BSA Navigator is an interpretation of bikes once produced by the Birmingham-based bike firm.



Their work has already earned recognition from the by the custom bike fraternity, winning awards at shows and exhibitions. The Francis Barnett bike has been featured in 100% Biker magazine and now, the handiwork of Twisted Spine Motorcycles is appearing on the front cover of the latest edition of the national custom bike magazine Back Street Heroes. This month’s publication features the firm’s BSA Navigator bike, modelled by former Ex on the Beach and The Only Way is Essex star Jess Impiazzi.


Mrs Wood said: “For Rob, it really started out as a hobby. It took six months to build the first bike, the Francis Barnett 56. It then won best in show at an event held at Stoneleigh Park, near Coventry, called the Kickback National Custom Bike Show.


“He then started making the BSA Navigator, which took three months to build.”



One of the inspirations for the Woods to start building custom-built bikes was the American Chopper television series, which aired on the Discovery Channel. Mrs Wood said: “We both love bikes and decided to specialise in the customisation of British bikes. We’re absolutely delighted with the exposure that both bikes have attracted.”


For Mr Wood, who balances his work at Twisted Spine with running a scrap metal business, making the bikes is a pain-staking process, but a labour of love. As well as building the bike frames himself, Mr Wood has a team of engineers who produce bespoke parts for the machines, made from a range of materials – from brass to wood. He said: “You could say our attention to detail is obsessive. The processes we use may not be the quickest or the most cost-effective but the level of finish is unsurpassed. For me, it’s like making art.


“We mainly focus on the old school bikes, but give them our own twist. But we are always open to suggestions from customers and are happy to accommodate their ideas.”





Derby custom-built motorbike firm is riding high

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Dienstag, 12. April 2016

The SPICE Book

Extremely easy-to-follow due to its natural progression tutorial approach on how to advance from the solution of typical electrical and electronic circuit examples by hand, followed by a SPICE verification through the discussion of simulation results. The first part contains relevant data about SPICE in order to analyze both linear passive and electronic circuits. The latter half provides more detail on such topics as distortion models and analysis, basic algorithms in SPICE, analysis option parameters and how to direct SPICE to find a solution when it fails.


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Delaware lawmakers eye bill adding motorcycles to lemon law

DOVER, Del. (AP) – Motorcycle buyers in Delaware who find themselves with faulty bikes may no longer be stuck with trying to make lemonade out of lemons.


The state House was to vote Tuesday on legislation adding motorcycles to the consumer protections for new vehicles under Delaware’s “lemon law.”


The bill passed the Senate unanimously in January.


Under the law, a new vehicle that is subject to at least four repair attempts because of the same problem within the warranty period or one year of delivery, or that is out of service for more than 30 days, is presumed to be a lemon.


The law requires the manufacturer in such an instance to replace the vehicle or give the consumer a full refund. The consumer can refuse a replacement vehicle and demand a repurchase.



Delaware lawmakers eye bill adding motorcycles to lemon law

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This handcrafted product has multiple uses as a laptop lap desk, food-serving tray, student lapdesk, and more. Bamboo is a renewable resource that has a greater tensile strength than steel and a higher compressive strength than concrete. It is the fastest growing plant on Earth making it very Eco friendly. The cotton cushion is attached to the bamboo by Velcro. Removing the cushion converts the desk into a serving tray.


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Montag, 11. April 2016

Public School To Show Women's, Men's Collections Together

Public School(Photo : Getty Images/JP Yim)



Public School‘s Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne are the latest designers to deviate from the fashion industry’s standard show schedule.


The design duo announced on Monday the decision to show Public School’s men’s and women’s collections together twice a year. The collections will be shown in December and June and will be called Collection 1 (pre-spring and spring) and Collection 2 (pre-fall and fall).


“Showing twice a year with both men’s and women’s in one show will allow us to really develop our ideas cohesively throughout the year and subsequently slow the entire process down. We can actually enjoy our collections as opposed to being tied to the calendar,” Chow told WWD.


“When we launched women’s it was always the extension of the men’s collections. It was a collection that our female friends could enjoy without altering the men’s pieces to wear. We feel the similar design approach made more of an impact when we showed men’s and women’s at the same time,” Osborne added.


During the traditional men’s fashion weeks in July and January and women’s in September and February, Public School will host some sort of consumer-facing event.


“The objective is of course to always improve our performance and have the best sell-through, getting the goods early in the stores. It is also important for us to be mindful of how our different collections sit on the floor together. And having one common concept for collection one and collection two will certainly help our accounts build a more robust and visually impactful assortment,” Public School president Anthony Landereau told WWD.


It is not yet known if DKNY, a brand Chow and Osborne took the helm of in 2015, will adopt a similar show schedule.


What do you think of Public School’s decision to combine its men’s and women’s shows? Share your thoughts with us in the comment section below. 


FOLLOW: Public School, Runway Shows



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Public School To Show Women"s, Men"s Collections Together

What's Better For Your Waistline: Living Alone or With a Roommate?

Having a wife or roommate could do wonders for your waistline. Living solo leads to poor eating habits, an Australian review suggests.


Men on their own tend to ear more junk, fewer fruits and vegetables, and less fish than those who share an abode, says study author Katherine Hanna, Ph.D.



What"s Better For Your Waistline: Living Alone or With a Roommate?

2004-2007 Honda Accord recalled for Takata airbag mix-up


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Honda is recalling roughly 11,600 Honda Accord vehicles from the 2004 to 2007 model years. The automaker and the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration both confirm that the recall stems from problems with the car’s passenger-side airbag, which was manufactured by Takata.


This particular recall, however, isn’t about replacing Takata inflators that make use of ammonium nitrate to deploy airbags. No, this recall stems from a mix-up involving Takata airbag modules designed for use in South America that may have been accidentally supplied for use on North American vehicles. Because the specifications for those devices are slightly different, the airbag modules for South American cars don’t meet U.S. regulations and therefore have to be replaced.


The good news–if you can call any recall “good news”–is that the Accord is already under recall because of Takata’s fatally flawed airbags. In other words, the Accord’s airbag system has to be serviced anyway, now there are simply two reasons for it.


The recall affects 2004-2007 Honda Accord vehicles manufactured between October 1, 2003 and August 17, 2007. Honda estimates that the recall includes 11,602 cars registered in the U.S.


Honda says that Accord owners who’ve already had their vehicles serviced under the initial Takata recall don’t have to take their cars for an additional inspection. Replacement parts used during the initial Accord/Takata recall meet U.S. guidelines.


Honda says that it expects to mail recall notices to owners by May 5, 2016. After receiving those notices, owners will be able to take their vehicles to Honda dealers, who will inspect and replace the passenger-side airbag as necessary, at no charge.


If you own one of these vehicles and have further questions, you’re encouraged to contact Honda customer service at 800-999-1009 and ask about recall JZ3. You can also ring NHTSA’s Vehicle Safety Hotline at 888-327-4236 and inquire about safety campaign #16V178000.



2004-2007 Honda Accord recalled for Takata airbag mix-up

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Sonntag, 10. April 2016

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Savile Row's first female tailor, Kathryn Sargent, on smashing the “windowpane check ceiling”




“It’s taken a lot of hard work to get here, you really have to earn your stripes on this street. Or, should I say, pinstripes,” says Kathryn Sargent. It’s an appropriate analogy; this week the 41-year-old from Yorkshire made history as the first woman to open her own namesake store on Savile Row. The fact that this is an area defined by a patrician sense of heritage and tradition, where tailors’ shops evoke the feel of a gentleman’s club, makes Sargent’s achievement all the more remarkable. 


Savile Row isn’t famed for its acceptance of change. When tailor Tommy Nutter opened his boutique in the 1960s he caused outcry by breaking with the tradition of velvet curtains shielding the shop inside, and placing mannequins wearing the clothes on display in the windows. When Ozwald Boateng and Richard James came to Savile Row in the 1990s, their defiant, apparently unseemly act of opening their stores on the weekend caused many a colonel to choke on his kippers. 


So how has the world reacted to the first woman opening up shop on London’s most traditional street? “Yes, it’s quite surreal,” she admits. “There’s an incredibly long history to Savile Row. But I have been trained here and I’ve been part of this tailoring community my whole working life. If I hadn’t had that background, opening a shop with a woman’s name above the door might not have been as warmly received as it has.”  









Kathryn Sargent


Credit:

Warren Allott







It’s true that women have always played an integral, if discreet, behind-the-scenes role in Savile Row’s story; nipping, pinning, cutting and sculpting the suits that have made this street the pinnacle of tailoring. “I trained as an apprentice at Gieves & Hawkes for five years, and had two amazing women who looked after me. One was a military tailor who did all the lacing on military uniforms, the other was a finisher who did all the lining and buttonholes, and they really ran the show. They ruled the roost and showed me that there were strong women within these teams, despite being outnumbered.” 


Such formidable presences helped give Sargent the confidence to shatter what she terms the “windowpane check ceiling.” 


“Have I felt like a woman in a man’s world? Initially yes, but nowadays I realise that I’m a woman in a diverse world,” she says diplomatically. “Traditionally there’s been an expectation that if you went to see your tailor, he’d be an older gentleman in a suit, but you soon realise that what matters is being able to communicate with the client and developing your expertise. Having said that, my father wouldn’t ever let me measure him!” 









Kathryn Sargent


Credit:

Warren Allott







The handsome, panelled environs of her emporium at 22 Savile Row are a long way from Leeds, where Sargent grew up, but it was another pioneering Yorkshire woman who prompted her to attend fashion school at Epsom college. “I always thought that Vivienne Westwood was wonderful, I really wanted to follow in her footsteps,” she says. 


Yet while Westwood’s fashion identity is defined by a renegade sense of experimentalism, for Sargent the draw was technique and tradition. “I was obsessed with construction and would buy old Burberry suits in charity shops just so I could take them apart and put them back together again, to see how they were made,” she explains. 


Years of training in how to make the cut, so to speak, followed before Sargent started picking up accolades for her work. In 2000 she won the esteemed Golden Shears Award, a hallmark of excellence awarded to newcomers in the industry. And two years ago she launched a bespoke tailoring service in Mayfair, which proved so successful she felt the time was right to launch into “the Row” with a standalone store. 


“There really is no quick fix in this line of work,” she says of an industry where every stitch of the needle is measured, every cuff sleeve considered, and apprentices can train for years before being deemed to have reached a standard sufficient to be let loose on a customer’s cloth. “There’s no one person on this street who knows everything, you’re constantly learning.” 














Sargent, herself sharply attired in an impeccable black suit with crimson neck scarf, believes part of her success is due to the fact that it’s no longer just men who want to shop on Savile Row. “I work a great deal with global business leaders and CEOs, and they are women as well as men. I cater to women who have worked hard to get to where they are and need high performance tailoring to help them look professional. My clothes aren’t fashion pieces, they are there to do a job. A suit can do a huge amount for a man or a woman.” 


Top divorce barrister Baroness Fiona Shackleton is know for buying her suits on Savile Row but, of course, Sargent is far too discreet to name her clients. Instead, she cites the Queen and the Prince of Wales as prime examples of elegance and masters of the art of looking appropriate, alongside Sean Connery’s Bond and Fred Astaire. “He’s one of the most enigmatic suit wearers of all time,” she says of the latter. “He showed how you can move in a suit, and of course he had most of them made on the Row”. 


For anyone else seeking to join the esteemed ranks of gentlemanly outfitters on this most revered street in men’s style, Sargent has only one piece of advice: “Find out as much as you can, seek advice and be patient. Don’t expect it to happen overnight.” 


Watching her guide clients through cloth swatches and sweep through the heavy curtains to her fitting rooms, it’s clear that Sargent’s patience has most certainly paid off. 









Kathryn Sargent


Credit:

Warren Allott







SARGENT’S FIVE SECRETS OF THE PERFECT SUIT


1. A suit has to sit comfortably around the neck


“A good tailored jacket should frame the face, if it doesn’t fit properly there it won’t anywhere else.”


2. Pay attention to colour


“See what the cloth does for your complexion. If you opt for a bold statement shade or check, think about how it will fit in your wardrobe day to day.”


3. Make sure you get the right sleeve length


“Consider the shirt you’re going to wear with it, whether a single or double cuff, and allow for that in the length.” 


4. Avoid extreme trends


“If you’re having something made bespoke, it must have longevity.”


5. Accessorise with contemporary pieces


“The suit itself should always err on the side of classic.”






Savile Row"s first female tailor, Kathryn Sargent, on smashing the “windowpane check ceiling”