The rise of the plus-size male model

The world’s first “brawny” male model, Zach Miko. Photo: BadRhino

Standing at 6’6″ with a 40-inch waist, Zach Miko isn’t your average male model. This certified hunk is the first person to be signed to IMG’s newly launched ‘Brawn’ division for men.

With a build that better reflects the average male waistline – which just happens to be 39-inches in Australia – this isn’t the first gig for 26-year-old Miko. The actor and comedian last year attracted attention when he fronted a campaign for Target’s ‘Big and Tall’ range.

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There are already modelling agencies dedicated to larger and average-bodied female models, but there hasn’t been a male equivalent – until now.

While women such as Robyn Lawley, Tess Holliday, Candice Huffine and Ashley Graham conquer catwalks, campaigns and covers, even spearheading social media movements such as #DropThePlus, larger-than-average men have long been sidelined by the industry. Women have benefited from feminist demands for more diverse representation in fashion; but men are increasingly facing similar body image concerns. 

Though niche agencies have represented “plus-size” male models before, this marks the first time one of the world’s foremost modelling agencies has got in on the game.

Speaking to WWD, IMG’s president Ivan Bart explained the intentions behind the new division: “[S]ize diversity is something that’s relevant and continues to be on everybody’s mind. We have to extend the conversation for men.” 

In signing onto the books, Miko wants to expand the range of editorial body types. He wants others to see his image and visualise themselves in his shoes, feeling more confident with their body shape and size as a result. Could it open the door for a new wave of bigger-bodied talent, beyond the realm of Carlton Draught and Doritos ads that play in-between sporting events? We can only hope so.

Miko’s part of a slow-growing body positive movement changing up the world of men’s fashion – and he certainly stands out in a sea of washboard abs and slender frames.  

Last year, it was announced that Instagram powerhouse The Fat Jew (AKA Josh Ostrovsky) would be making his foray into fashion by signing with modelling agency One Management. “I just want to inspire people of my size and my gender to be comfortable in their own skin because it’s OK to have a mediocre body and very, very high cholesterol, as long as you look great doing it,” he said.

We held out hope when he scored a show spot at New York Fashion Week, but rather than making any real and impactful statement about size diversity, it quickly descended into parody about ‘dadbods’. We saw middle-aged men wearing BBQ aprons, turtleneck jumpers and bargain-bin business suits, storming down a turf-covered catwalk while a prog rock soundtrack played overhead. These men didn’t appear to care about how they looked any more.

This is a common misconception. The lack of plus-size models corresponds with the lack of plus-size clothing options. As Miko told WWD, “I still have a very hard time walking into any physical brick-and-mortar store and finding anything that fits. I don’t think designers feel like big guys want to look good.” Though the market is there, the industry for sartorially discerning heavier gents is yet to be created.

Though Miko’s growing portfolio is definitely progressing, men’s fashion continues to peddle a very narrow view of what it means to be beautiful, trendy and desirable. As it stands, male models typically come in two sizes: the toned, gym-honed physiques of men like Brad Kroenig, Tyson Beckford and David Gandy or the hollow-cheeked, prepubescent look promoted by Saint Laurent’s runway boys.

The conversation surrounding body positivity has long focused on women, but issues of body acceptance and beauty standards are just as real and relevant for men. That bigger guys can be fashionable is no surprise to us, so why has it taken the industry so long to catch on?

The rise of the plus-size male model