The early morning pseudo-industry chatter was pure and random; Kors is notoriously funny. But most of all, his non-show shows are simply the best way to experience a men’s collection.
During the next 20 or so minutes, the designer personally walked us through his 27-look collection, piece-by-piece, on a group of models — a process that allows me, as an editor, to really understand his vision for the season. The clothes come alive because of the stories Kors tells, the pictures he paints.
In his own words: “island life,” a “hybrid of a nautical hippie,” “a little Peter Beard running throughout and Picasso stripes, “ and what guys have no doubt been drinking “way too much of while on an island sojourn.” (That’s the dusty, rosé-hued poplin pieces for you.)
Of the last, all-black look — which included a utility anorak and modern track pant with a light, chunky knit for summer — he recounted: “I told Ben [Eidem, a Swedish model and his muse] that if this was a women’s presentation, he would be the Karlie Kloss, the one fighting for that finale look. Although she would just tell me she’s closing the show. And, of course, he’s shorter than her, too!”
That’s not all he had to say. After the tents and venues on the West Side closed down, I caught up with Kors for a more intimate tête-à-tête. Below are his thoughts on men’s fashion, as well as some relaxed, yet luxe, style tips. (Hint: Start with the shoes.)
Congratulations on showing another standout collection at the inaugural New York Fashion Week: Men’s. It seems to be a phenomenally simple and efficient way to present a collection. So why do you think other designers have been hesitant to embrace this format?
I think it depends on your personality and who you design a collection for. I’ve always loved trunk shows — I wish I could still do as many as when I first started designing because I like talking to people about the clothes, seeing their reactions, and hearing their questions. I don’t design my clothes for the runway or for a show. I design them to be worn.
You’ve also been vocal in saying that menswear should not be on the runway — or it isn’t serviced by being presented that way. Can you explain your thoughts there?
Menswear is in the details.
The truth is, you’re taking the favourite pieces that every guy already has in his wardrobe, and each season you’re figuring out what it is that makes their favourite new — the new white shirt, the new navy blazer — and usually it has to do with the fabric and the construction. You can’t see those things in a show; you can’t see the nuances.
Menswear is tactile, you have to see it up close and feel it. We did these reversible totes for spring, and if we did a regular show, you would have never known they were reversible. Those types of details get lost on a runway, and they’re important.
This season you continue to service that elevated hybrid of dressing up and dressing down. What are the first steps in a guy achieving this look if he’s been stuck on one end of the spectrum for so long?
Ease into it. If you’re used to being in a traditional suit all day, then a white linen pant and henley might be a little too drastic. But a more relaxed suit — something unlined, maybe, with the wrinkle built in — is a stepping stone. You’re still polished, you’re still in a suit, but it’s more laid-back.
As your collections show, you’re a stickler for cross-seasonal outerwear and knitwear. Why do you think both of those categories are important for designers to design and sell year-long?
Honestly, the weather is insane. You almost never know what you’re going to get in any given season anymore. Then, in the summer in New York, even if it’s hot, everything is so over-air conditioned that you need a sweater inside — and vice-versa in the winter. And you have to factor in that people are travelling more than ever before, so they need clothes that can span climates. No one is travelling with trunks anymore — the clothes need to be packable and they need to go everywhere our customer is going.
You’re also an early adapter of men’s sandals with tailoring and roomier atypical silhouettes — two trends I think most guys are still reluctant to attempt. How would you suggest a guy experiment with some of these more advanced style elements that frankly, scare them?
Take it a piece at a time. If you never wear sandals, start with a heavier sandal, something with substance, on the weekends. Soon you’ll be wearing them with a trouser and a linen sweater at the office. On the other hand, if you live in sneakers, try a rugged boat shoe. They’re still comfortable, but they’re a little more polished. I don’t believe in clothes that are too extremely oversized for most men, but I do like the idea of ease and comfort, and I think most men do, too.
Your collections always have a well-travelled element to them and kind of exemplify man at his off-duty best. What and where inspired this season?
I kept thinking about island life and this kind of laid- back ease that I think every man craves — especially when the weather gets warm. We wanted to bring that relaxed attitude that you find in Capri, or in Catalina, and make it something you can also wear in Manhattan. Today, people are more casual in the city and more dressed-up on vacation, and this collection caters to that idea.
Any personal travel plans before the women’s collections pull your attention back to New York, come September?
This summer we’ll be spending a lot of time on Long Island, as I love it when we finally have true beach weather here in New York. And then Capri, of course, at the end of the season. — Bloomberg
How to do fashion the Michael Kors way | Life | Malay Mail Online
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